You've scrolled past enough oval and round engagement rings to know what they look like. Then a photo stops you: a long stone with softly pointed ends, or an oval lying sideways across the finger. Neither has an obvious name, and the comments are full of people asking what it is.
Those two looks, the moval cut and the east-west setting, are the center of the new diamond shapes conversation in 2026. This guide explains what each one is, how they compare with oval, marquise, and pear, what to check before you buy, and which Lockstone Jewels designs show the shapes and settings in practice.
Key Takeaways
- New diamond shapes in 2026 are mostly elongated ones. Katelyn Meche, Stuller's director of bridal, told National Jeweler on March 5, 2026, that emerald, marquise, and elongated cushion cuts grew the most in popularity over the past year.
- Round and oval still lead. The Knot's 2026 Real Weddings Study, covering more than 10,000 U.S. couples married in 2025, found round diamonds at 26 percent and oval at 25 percent, with emerald, pear, and marquise at 8 percent each.
- A moval cut sits between an oval and a marquise. Adiamor's June 11, 2026 guide says ovals run up to a length-to-width ratio of about 1.70, and past that point the ends begin to narrow into a moval.
- East-west and elongated stones need a closer look. GIA's guide (December 12, 2013) lists typical ratios of 1.33 to 1.66 for oval, 1.50 to 1.75 for pear, and 1.75 to 2.25 for marquise, and notes that oval, marquise, and pear brilliants can show a bow-tie.
- Lab-grown is now the common route. The Knot's study, reported by JCK, found lab-grown center stones in 61 percent of engagement rings purchased in 2025.
Quick Answer
- What is a moval cut diamond? A moval is a hybrid with an oval's rounded body and a marquise's tapered ends. It's usually narrower than an oval, and proportions vary from stone to stone.
- What is an east-west engagement ring? It turns an elongated center stone 90 degrees so it lies across the finger. Oval, emerald, marquise, and pear are the shapes most often set this way.
- How do I spot a heavy bow-tie? Watch the exact stone in 360-degree video. A faint center shadow is common in elongated cuts, while a solid dark band is a reason to keep looking.
New Diamond Shapes for 2026 at a Glance
Moval and east-west get the attention, but they sit inside a wider shift toward long, narrow outlines. The table puts the main candidates side by side. Ratios come from the sources named, and they describe typical ranges, not rules.
| Shape or Style | Outline | Typical Length-to-Width Ratio | Pointed Ends |
|---|---|---|---|
| Oval | Rounded ends, smooth curve | 1.33 to 1.66 (GIA, 2013) | No |
| Moval | Oval body, tapered rounded ends | About 1.6 to 2.1 (one retailer guide); ends narrow past about 1.70 (Adiamor) | Softened |
| Marquise | Long, with two points | 1.75 to 2.25 (GIA, 2013) | Yes |
| Pear | Rounded end and a point | 1.50 to 1.75 (GIA, 2013) | One point |
| Elongated cushion | Soft corners, stretched rectangle | Varies by stone; check the report | No |
| East-west setting | Any elongated stone, rotated across the finger | Same as the stone itself | Depends on the shape |
Which Shapes Are Gaining Ground in 2026
The sales picture is more settled than the headlines suggest. In The Knot's 2026 Real Weddings Study, as reported by National Jeweler on March 5, 2026, round diamonds were chosen by 26 percent of couples and oval by 25 percent. Emerald, pear, marquise, and princess cuts each came in at 8 percent, and cushion and radiant cuts at 6 percent each.
What is changing is the direction of movement. Meche said emerald, marquise, and the elongated cushion, which she called "the modern cousin of the old mine-cut diamond," grew the most over the past year. Designer Lorraine West said marquise was already growing before Benny Blanco proposed to Selena Gomez with one in December 2024, according to the same article. Retailer blogs also point to elongated outlines, but few cite data, so treat their rankings as opinion.
The same National Jeweler piece pictures a 4.01-carat moval in an 18-karat yellow gold ring from designer Vanessa Fernández, so the shape is appearing at the design level. It doesn't appear as its own category in the survey figures reported there.
The Moval Cut: Where Oval Meets Marquise
A moval (a blend of "marquise" and "oval") takes the long, narrow look of a marquise and rounds off the tips. The result is "pointed, but not sharp."
How a Moval Differs From an Oval and a Marquise
Against an oval, a moval is narrower, and its ends taper more. The line is at roughly a 1.70 length-to-width ratio: below it you have a traditional oval, and above it the ends start to narrow. Against a marquise, a moval has rounded ends instead of sharp points.
There's no official grading definition behind the name. That notes movals lack strict universal parameters, so each stone's proportions vary. Two stones sold as movals can look noticeably different, which makes photos and video more useful than the shape name.
Ratio, Facets, and Cut Styles
Most movals fall between about 1.6 and 2.1 length-to-width, and lower ratios look softer and wider. In comparison, higher ratios look slimmer and more dramatic. The same guide says movals typically carry 58 to 72 facets. Treat both as one seller's description, not an industry standard.
There are two cut styles. A brilliant moval emphasizes sparkle, and an old mine (antique) moval has larger facets and softer light. If you like vintage-leaning rings, our guide to vintage and Art Deco engagement rings covers the details that pair with that softer look.
Color and Clarity in a Moval
Elongated stones show color more than rounder ones, which suggests staying within D to I color and VS2 or higher clarity for an eye-clean look. That's one retailer's advice, and an inclusion's placement matters as much as its grade. The practical test is the same as for any fancy shape: look at the exact stone in video, in the metal tone you plan to wear. Our guide to diamond carat vs. size explains how grades and weight interact.
Settings for a Moval
Most jewelers recommend compass prongs, which protect the tapered ends while keeping the outline clean, and open-bridge solitaires, which let more light into the stone and show off the long proportions. A bezel is another way to cover the ends, and our bezel setting guide weighs the trade-offs. A moval can be set vertically for a classic look or east-west for a more modern one.
Finding a Moval at Lockstone Jewels
Lockstone's ring listings feature oval, marquise, and pear center stones. If you want a shape you don't see listed, the custom jewelry page outlines a five-step design process that starts with choosing the cut, and the team can say what's possible for a moval.
East-West Settings: Turning the Stone Sideways
Our overview of 2026 engagement ring trends introduces east-west rings as one of several styles. This section goes further into how to choose one.
What an East-West Setting Is
In a traditional ring, the long axis of the center stone runs from the knuckle toward the fingertip (north to south). An east-west setting rotates it 90 degrees so the long axis runs across the finger. It is turning the traditional setting "on its side," and says the look suggests a larger stone. That's the retailer's description of an optical effect, and how it reads depends on the stone and the hand.
Shapes That Suit It
Rotation only changes the look of a stone that has a long axis. The names oval, emerald, and marquise as the strongest choices and lists radiant, cushion, and pear as other elongated options. It describes oval as soft, emerald as architectural, and marquise as the most dramatic. A moval fits the same logic, since most of the notes it can be set east-west.
Setting Styles That Work Sideways
East-west stones work in solitaire, bezel, and hidden halo settings, and a standard halo can make the horizontal line look busy. Our hidden halo buying guide explains how that setting adds sparkle without a visible ring of stones.
Two Lockstone designs show the style. The 2 Ct Oval Lab Grown Diamond East West Half Bezel Engagement Ring pairs an oval center stone with a half bezel. The 3 Carat East West Emerald Cut Lab Diamond Eternity Band sets emerald cuts sideways along the band. Both listings show IGI-certified lab-grown diamonds in 14K or 18K gold in yellow, white, or rose, but confirm the details of the exact piece before you order.
Pairing With a Wedding Band
Stacking takes planning. We note that some east-west settings need careful planning for stacking, and suggest designing the band, gallery, and setting height together. Curved and classic bands pair well, and many bands are made to sit flush against different setting profiles. If you're choosing both at once, bring the engagement ring to the band appointment, or ask about both together. Sizing a wider stone also matters, and our guide to ring diameter and circumference explains how fit affects wear.
Judging It on Your Hand
It's worth noting that an east-west stone can look too wide, short, or dominant, and that a very thin band can exaggerate a large horizontal stone. The advice is to judge the ring on the hand, not in photos. If you can't try one on, compare the stone's measurements with a ring you already wear.
The Bow-Tie Effect: What to Check in Elongated Stones
A bow-tie is a darker area across the center of a stone, shaped like its name. It comes from light passing through the pavilion (the lower part of the diamond) instead of reflecting to your eye. GIA's 2013 guide says oval brilliants often show one, and that marquise, pear, and heart shapes may also, when cut in the brilliant style.
It's normal to see some shadow and not a flaw, and it recommends looking for an even spread of light with only a soft shadow. A solid dark band is the version to avoid. Because elongated stones can show it to varying degrees, the check is visual: use a 360-degree video of the specific stone, and view it from several angles.
Protecting Pointed and Tapered Ends
Points are the most exposed part of a marquise or pear. GIA's guide says V-shaped prongs help protect the points of a marquise, and that a pear should have a V-prong at the point to help prevent damage. It also says a diamond that is too shallow may be more prone to chipping.
A moval's ends are rounder, but Adiamor still recommends compass prongs to protect them. A bezel or half bezel covers the ends in metal, so it's a practical option for everyday wear. Our jewelry care guide covers inspection and storage. For a marquise or pear, the Marquise Cut Lab Diamond High Set Solitaire Engagement Ring and the Pear Cut Lab Diamond Half Bezel Solitaire Engagement Ring show two different ways to hold the stone.
Other Shapes and Styles Rising Alongside Them
1. Elongated Cushion
An elongated cushion is a rectangular cushion with soft corners. Meche's comparison to the old mine-cut places it in the vintage family, and the cushion appears in The Knot's study at 6 percent, a figure that also includes old mine-cuts. Our vintage and Art Deco guide covers how antique-style stones are described.
2. Marquise and Pear
Both are pointed shapes with the bow-tie and point-protection questions covered above. For a broader view of how oval, marquise, and pear compare on apparent size, see our guide to which diamond shape looks the biggest.
3. Toi et Moi
Toi et moi (French for "you and me") isn't a stone shape. It's an arrangement of two stones on one band, and the stones can be the same shape or different ones. The Two Stone Pear Cut Toi et Moi Lab Diamond Engagement Ring is one Lockstone example. You can combine it with east-west thinking, since both change how stones sit across the finger.
How to Choose a Shape for Your Hand and Style
Start with the look, then check the practical points. These pairings are starting places, not rules.
- If you want soft lines with extra length, look at an oval or a moval. Our comparison of oval vs. round diamonds and our guide to oval ring settings are good next reads.
- If you want a dramatic outline, a marquise or pear gives you points, and you'll want protective prongs or a bezel.
- If you want a clean, architectural look, an emerald cut set east-west is one way to get it. See the 1.28 TCW Art Deco Emerald Cut Lab Diamond Hidden Halo Engagement Ring for an emerald in a vintage-leaning setting.
- If you can't choose one stone, a toi et moi uses two. Browse our three-stone engagement rings and solitaire engagement rings to compare the layouts.
For more ideas outside these shapes, see our list of unique engagement rings for women. Planning a proposal around a specific shape? Our guide to planning a proposal covers timing.
Buying These Shapes in Lab-Grown Diamonds
Fancy shapes are available as lab-grown diamonds, and they follow the same cutting principles as natural ones. If you want the background, read about lab-grown diamonds, real diamonds, and whether they're worth buying. The Knot's study, as reported by JCK, found lab-grown center stones in 61 percent of engagement rings bought in 2025, from more than 10,000 U.S. couples.
For elongated shapes, a few checks apply:
- Look at the exact stone. Video shows the bow-tie and the outline, which the shape name can't.
- Read the measurements. Length and width in millimeters let you calculate the ratio and compare stones.
- Read what the report covers. GIA's 2013 guide says it doesn't grade overall proportions of fancy-cut diamonds and instead assesses finish (polish and symmetry). Ask what the report for your specific stone lists.
- Confirm the details for your exact piece. Certification and metal options are product-specific, so check the listing for the ring you choose.
Frequently Asked Questions
1. Is a moval diamond more expensive than an oval or marquise?
No independent price comparison turned up in the sources reviewed for this guide, so there's no reliable figure to quote. Price depends on carat weight, color, clarity, cut quality, and the seller, and those vary by stone. A less common shape can carry a different price than a familiar one, but that depends on supply and cutting, and sellers price differently. The reliable method is to compare two stones with similar grades and measurements from the same seller, and to ask for the full specification of each before deciding.
2. Is moval an official shape on a diamond report?
Not as a defined grading category, based on the sources reviewed. Movals lack strict universal grading parameters, so proportions differ between stones. A report still lists measurements and grades, and the shape description on it is up to the lab. If a seller calls a stone a moval, ask what the report says about its outline and read the length and width. Our guide to CVD vs. HPHT lab-grown diamonds explains other notes that can appear on a lab-grown report.
3. Does a bow-tie show up on the certificate?
Usually not as a graded item. It isn't a clarity characteristic and won't appear on the certificate, and GIA's 2013 guide says it assesses finish, not overall proportions, for fancy cuts. Seller photos can't settle the question either, because one angle hides what another shows. Ask for a 360-degree video, tilt through several angles, and compare two or three similar stones under the same lighting. Different labs report different things, so check what the report for your specific stone includes before you rely on it.
4. Does an east-west setting make a diamond look bigger?
Retailers say it can. The setting creates the impression of a bigger stone, and a horizontal stone can look larger than its carat weight. Neither gives measurements, so treat it as an effect that varies by stone, proportions, and hand. Carat measures weight, not width, and two stones of the same weight can have different surface area. Compare length and width in millimeters, and see how each stone looks on a hand in photos. Our guide on diamond carat vs. size explains why.
5. Are east-west rings practical for everyday wear?
It says the lower profile of an east-west ring can be more comfortable and less likely to snag on clothing. That's one retailer's view, and it depends on how high the stone sits and how the metal is shaped. Ask for the setting height, and check how the ring feels under a glove or a sleeve if you wear them daily. A bezel or half bezel covers the stone's edges in metal. If you work with your hands, try the ring on and wear it around the house before committing.
6. Can a round diamond be set east-west?
You can set any diamond in any direction, but with a round stone the orientation changes nothing you can see, because a round has no long axis. East-west matters for shapes with a clear length, such as oval, emerald, marquise, pear, and elongated cushion. A square cushion or princess behaves much like a round in this respect. If the sideways look appeals to you, pick a stone with enough length that the rotation is visible, and compare its ratio against the table above. A ratio close to 1.0 will look the same either way.
7. What is the difference between toi et moi and east-west?
They're often grouped as trends, but they describe different things. Toi et moi is an arrangement of two stones on one band, and the stones can be the same shape or two different ones. East-west is the direction a single elongated stone faces. The two can overlap, for example, the two ovals set side by side across the finger. If you're deciding between them, ask whether you want one statement stone or two stones that each carry meaning. For a closer look at the two-stone style, see our engagement ring trends guide.
8. How do I calculate a stone's length-to-width ratio?
Divide the longer measurement by the shorter one, both in millimeters. A stone measuring 9 mm by 6 mm has a ratio of 1.5. Compare the result with the ranges in the table above, then compare it with how a stone looks in video, since two stones with the same ratio can look different. Measurements are listed on grading reports and in many listings. If a listing gives only carat weight, ask the seller for the dimensions before you compare.
9. Which of these shapes does Lockstone Jewels list?
The engagement ring listings include oval, marquise, and pear center stones and so on, as well as east-west designs and toi et moi rings. Browse the lab-grown diamond engagement rings collection for current designs, since availability changes. Each listing states its own metals and certification, so read the details for the exact ring instead of assuming they carry across designs. If your shape isn't listed, the custom jewelry option in the next question may help.
10. Can I request a shape that isn't listed?
You can ask. The custom jewelry page describes a five-step process that begins with choosing the jewelry type and the diamond cut. Lockstone's shipping policy says custom pieces may take two to four weeks to create, and its refund policy says custom or engraved pieces can't be returned unless defective. Contact the team before ordering to confirm whether a specific shape, such as a moval, is possible and what the timeline would be. If a proposal date is fixed, raise that at the start so the schedule can be checked.
Final Thoughts
Moval and east-west are two ways to get the same thing: a longer, more distinctive stone than a standard round or oval. Both need a closer look than their names suggest. Check the ratio, watch the stone in video for a bow-tie, protect the ends, and try the ring on a hand if you can.
When you're ready to compare real designs, browse our lab-grown diamond engagement rings, or start a custom design if the shape you want isn't listed.